A&S 2024SS – Natural Dyeing

Chain net high count fine linen/natural and Stone stripe high count super fine linen fabrics are signature materials for the A&S Spring/Summer line, characterized by high-density linen weaves and hand-dyed finishes.

The chain net pattern is an adaptation of pin dots from Ise-katagami documents dating back to the Edo period. It’s expressed in two colors: resist dyeing with gobaishi dye and overprinting with gobaishi on natural-colored fabric. The stone stripe pattern is a reinterpretation of geometric motifs of squares and lines reminiscent of hand-drawn styles found in vintage references. It’s created in three colors: gobaishi dye (Gobaishi), natural indigo dye (Ai dark), and persimmon tannin dye (Kakishibu), using a soft resist paste intentionally formulated to create a blurred effect through resist dyeing.

Ise katagami, traditional stencil patterns for dyeing, originated in the districts of Shirako, Terake, and Ejima in Suzuka City, Mie Prefecture, boasting a history of over a thousand years. During the Edo period, they gained prominence, especially with the use of stencil dyeing on samurai attire. In the early 19th century, their fame spread to Europe when a German visitor brought back a large quantity of Ise katagami from Japan. These patterns have had a profound impact on designs across various fields, including crafts, fashion, bags, and wallpaper, with European calico patterns said to draw inspiration from Ise katagami.

Gobaishi, or gallnuts, are dried outgrowths formed at the base of leaves on trees belonging to the Rhus genus in the Anacardiaceae family. They are created as a result of stimuli such as wounds inflicted during parasitic infestation by aphid larvae or the movement of larvae growing inside the tree trunk, causing the surrounding tissues of the tree to swell and transform. Gobaishi is rich in tannic acid and reacts with iron to produce a blackish-purple color.

Hand printing, known as ‘tenassen,’ is a printing process done manually. A stencil is placed on fabric stretched over a printing table, and a mixture of dye and paste is applied onto the fabric using a spatula or similar tool to imprint the pattern onto the cloth. After steaming to set the color, the fabric undergoes washing for finishing. It’s a traditional dyeing method widely employed in textiles.

‘Daishigoki-zome,’ is a dyeing technique where color paste is continuously supplied using specialized equipment while the entire fabric is rubbed to dye it without the use of a stencil. It’s a highly challenging method reliant on the tactile sensation and experience of skilled artisans, achievable only by a limited number of craftsmen.

Explore our collection of shirts, pants, and dresses dyed using natural plant dyes, meticulously crafted through generations of artisanal techniques. Experience the craftsmanship firsthand by visiting our stores.