Interview with Mariko Tsuchiyama

For me, it all starts with materials that spark inspiration. I always make a point of seeing and touching each one myself, and I’m especially drawn to pearls and stones that have irregular shapes or a strong sense of character. When I encounter these unique qualities, the design naturally begins to take form in my mind.

As I carefully engage in a conversation with the materials during the creative process, I feel that every piece of jewelry gains its own story. Beyond the materials themselves, memorable people, films, and fragments of memories also serve as important sources of inspiration.

Living near the sea brings me a sense of calm. After focusing intently on delicate handwork, looking out over the coastline helps clear my mind and sharpen my senses. It’s in these quiet moments that fresh inspiration often arises naturally.

Materials like baroque pearls and salt-and-pepper diamonds, which have distinctive colors, shapes, or inclusions, naturally pair better with handmade clasps than with uniform, ready-made ones. I feel that the subtle irregularities and imperfections of handcrafted clasps, rather than detracting from them, actually bring the individuality of the materials into sharper relief.

I was captivated by their poised, uncompromising presence — as if always facing forward no matter the angle — and by the quiet tension of a perfect sphere, which gives a design a dignified, unwavering core. Pearls with geometric or graphic shapes inspire ideas naturally. My love of white gemstones may also come from a lifelong preference for monochrome clothing, as well as the influence of my mother’s style. To me, pearls are a singular presence — one that conveys both a cosmic sense of expansiveness and a deep, serene stillness.

I mainly use three types of pearls: Akoya pearls from Nagasaki, South Sea pearls known for their beautiful white and gold colors, and Tahitian black pearls. Keshi pearls are also indispensable. Keshi pearls are formed without a nucleus when sand or small foreign particles accidentally enter the oyster and the pearl layer naturally forms around them. As their name suggests, they are small like poppy seeds, and their accidental shapes have a unique individuality. Keshi pearls are rare and can be found among Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian varieties.

All of these pearls have a delicate luster and subtle color tones, and their presence stands out when worn against the skin. Even when their shapes are irregular, they possess elegance and draw the eye.

My appreciation for the beauty of imperfect shapes may come from my experience with the tea ceremony during my student days. I am strongly attracted to the deepening hues brought about by distortions and the passage of time — qualities born from nature itself that give each a one-of-a-kind character.

Diamonds. I sense the history of the stone in its inclusions.

The Silent Fog Necklace (Tahitian pearl) was inspired by the overcast skies and misty landscapes of the UK. Its gray hues give it a contemporary and minimalist feel. The Tahitian pearls are large, and their substantial weight when worn is pleasantly grounding — one of my favorite types of pearls to work with. These high-quality pearls have deep layers that reflect light beautifully, creating a radiant luster.

The Whispering Dandelion Necklace (gold South Sea pearl) was chosen with the image of dandelions heralding the arrival of spring. I’m also deeply moved by the story behind these pearls, carefully nurtured over time in gentle ocean currents through meticulous effort. They have a velvety, honey-like texture that seems to melt softly to the touch, and each pearl’s unique color adds individual character. The result is a truly captivating necklace.

A&S was the first Japanese store we began working with after launching the brand. When the request came to change the silver components to gold, replacing the necklace clasps with gold added warmth and definition to the pearls, resulting in a bolder impression. This was a new discovery for me. At last year’s trunk show, I met A&S’s customers for the first time, and since then, I have had more opportunities to create pieces while imagining their faces and preferences.

I truly enjoy bringing A&S’s clear vision to life through jewelry.