MARQUESS for A&S “Tokyo”
The series, which started in 2019, introduces its fourth model, Tokyo, following the Oxford, Durham, and York styles. We would love to learn more about this shoe, which was created based on various requests from Sonya.
- The previous names have been associated with the UK, but this time you've chosen Tokyo. Could you explain the reason behind this choice?
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Kawaguchi
It might be a slight shift in mindset. While I will continue making classic British shoes, for me, the joy of shoemaking isn’t limited to just that. Observing the city of Tokyo, where I currently live, and its people, sparked my imagination in various ways, and I wanted to give shape to the sensations that arose from that. That’s how this shoe came to be, and so I named the model Tokyo.
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- I feel that Tokyo has many differences compared to the Oxford, Durham, and York. Could you share what was emphasized in the design process, the challenges you faced, and the aspects, specifications, or materials that you were most particular about?
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Kawaguchi
The design is a casual apron-front derby, but I aimed to create a shoe with an urban impression, as suggested by the model name. The last is shaped to have a smart silhouette that wraps around the foot securely, and the moccasin stitching is expressed with fine stitches to give a delicate impression. The wings are designed with a V-front and feature four eyelets for a sharp cut. Additionally, the combination of nubuck for the upper and a rubber sole provides a matte texture. Even in a casual design, I focused on the details to achieve a subtle and elegant impression.
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- Could you share your thoughts on the completion of Tokyo? Are there any specific styling suggestions for how you would like people to wear this model?
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Kawaguchi
I would be delighted if Tokyo becomes a classic shoe that is cherished for many years. I think the sleek last combined with a chunky sole will complement various styles. For instance, you could wear the Tokyo in JETBLACK with A&S’s Old Chinos in Black, topped off with a simple sweater and a coat.
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- The shoes from Marquess that have been introduced at ARTS&SCIENCE seem to reflect a sense of femininity and elements that evoke women, even within the menswear-inspired designs. Is this something you are conscious of? I believe you may have different thoughts regarding this compared to your work in crafting bespoke gentlemen’s shoes, where you are involved in the entire process. I would love to hear your insights.
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Kawaguchi
When creating women’s shoes for Marquess, I am conscious of not merely making a smaller version of gentlemen’s shoes. Simply reducing the size of gentlemen’s shoes does not provide a good fit and can make the appearance clumsy. It is essential to design a last specifically for women and to draw the best lines for that last. Fundamentally, I approach making women’s shoes with the same philosophy as I do for bespoke gentlemen’s shoes. Shoes are items where quality is easily conveyed, so I choose the finest materials, both where they are visible and where they are not.
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- We have been showcasing Marquess shoes at A&S for five years. Could you share your experiences and insights gained from your collaboration with A&S, your feelings about the craftsmanship, and what you would like to pursue or create in the future?
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Kawaguchi
The collaboration with A&S has allowed me to adopt a more creative approach to craftsmanship while still keeping traditional British shoemaking at the core. I feel this balance defines Marquess women’s shoes. I have a desire to create shoes with embroidery, and it would be wonderful to see this idea come to life someday.
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Tokyo is the fourth model in our women’s ready-to-wear shoe series crafted for A&S by Shoji Kawaguchi, a renowned shoemaker associated with an esteemed British bespoke shoe manufacturer, celebrated for his craftsmanship both in Japan and internationally. We invite you to experience its unique fit in-store.
“Tokyo”
- BRAND
MARQUESS for A&S
- MATERIAL
Cow leather
- SIZE
3, 3½, 4, 4½, 5, 5½, 6
- COLOR
Jet black (PHOTO), black coffee, charcoal
- PRICE
¥165,000 (¥150,000 excl. tax)
- STORES
For inquiries, please contact each shop directly or use our contact form.
